Indianapolis – In a recent interview for the community cookbook “Sueñitos de Strangers,” Mark Santiago, a 24‑year‑old pharmacy student, explained his vision of opening a brick‑and‑mortar Filipino restaurant in the city. Santiago, who grew up hearing the affectionate Filipino term “kuya” (older‑brother) used as a sign of respect, says the growing popularity of Filipino culture in Indianapolis makes now the right time to create a dedicated space for the cuisine.
Dream of a Filipino restaurant
“My dream is to open a Filipino restaurant here in Indianapolis,” Santiago told author Keaun Michael Brown. He noted that while other local vendors such as Kuya Mike, who makes Salamat Cookies, and the restaurant Taste of Manila showcase Filipino flavors, none yet have a permanent storefront. Santiago wants a physical location where he can both promote Filipino culture and celebrate fellow vendors.
Family roots and language
Santiago’s father works for Delta in baggage handling, allowing the family frequent trips to the Philippines. Their hometown is Makati City, a bustling suburb of Manila that Santiago likens to the relationship between Indianapolis and nearby Shelbyville. He also described the linguistic diversity of the Philippines, mentioning Tagalog, Cebuano, Ilocano, and Bikol, and explained that he understands Tagalog when spoken to him but struggles to respond—a phenomenon he called “receptive bilingualism.”
What kinilaw na labanos means
The dish that sparked Santiago’s cultural pride is kinilaw na labanos, a white radish ceviche. He recalled the first time his aunt served it, saying, “It was the moment I realized I was Filipino, no matter where I am.” The recipe combines thinly sliced radish, smoked fish (tinapa), vinegar, bagoong (fermented shrimp paste), lime juice, chili, and fresh vegetables.
Recipe
Prepare the radish (labanos): Shred or cut into thin strips, sprinkle with salt, and let sit 10‑15 minutes to draw out water. Rinse, then gently squeeze to remove excess moisture.
Cook the tinapa: Lightly pan‑fry the smoked fish until warm and slightly crisp, then remove skin, bones, and flake the meat.
Prepare vegetables: Thinly slice red onion and seed‑less tomato, cutting both into strips.
Assemble: In a bowl combine the drained radish, vinegar, and bagoong; taste and adjust. Add black pepper, lime juice, salt, and chili to taste. Fold in the flaked tinapa, onion, and tomato gently.
Serve immediately as a refreshing appetizer or side dish.
Looking ahead
Santiago hopes his future restaurant will be “aggressively Filipino,” with loud décor and unmistakable cultural motifs that honor his parents’ upbringing. He believes food is the most effective way to share identity and connect with neighbors, a sentiment that aligns with Indianapolis’ growing appreciation for diverse culinary traditions.
For more stories from local creators, visit Mirror Indy’s community cookbook project.
Original reporting: Mirror Indy — read the source article.
