Fresno’s newest high‑end dining venue, Bulle, is confronting two significant setbacks less than six months after its grand opening. Executive chef Max Wasco McCarthy announced his voluntary departure in early August, and the California Labor Commissioner’s Office has identified three pending wage claims against the restaurant.
Chef departure
McCarthy, who previously held positions at Michelin‑recognized establishments such as Alinea, Quince and Le Jardinière, confirmed he stepped aside at the beginning of August. In a brief statement to Fresnoland, he said he was moving on but did not elaborate on the reasons for his exit.
Restaurant owners Tom and Davita Miller, also known for the Press Box Grill, responded that the split was amicable. Miller explained that while McCarthy’s menu was “brilliant but restrictive,” the larger 160‑seat format of Bulle required broader appeal to sustain the business. He added that discussions about a possible menu pivot had occurred long before the restaurant opened.
Wage complaints
The California Labor Commissioner’s Office confirmed three wage claims filed against Bulle. The earliest claim was received in April 2026, with two additional complaints lodged in July and August 2026. All claims remain pending.
Online chatter, including a Reddit post from July 28, echoed employee concerns about delayed or returned paychecks. Miller acknowledged the post as authentic and cited a July 8 staff message. He disclosed that out of roughly 120 team members, five payroll checks bounced. Miller said the restaurant immediately issued cashier’s checks, personally delivering or depositing funds for affected employees, and asserted that no workers remain unpaid.
Addressing the cash‑flow challenges, Miller attributed the issue to “normal cash‑flow pressures” of operating a high‑overhead restaurant, a slow season, and the costs associated with a new opening. He noted that the combination of these factors created the most difficult financial stretch the business has faced.
Future plans
To stabilize operations, the Millers have engaged an experienced consulting group that includes a Michelin‑trained chef and a veteran Fresno chef with over four decades of restaurant‑group leadership. Miller said the current culinary team is excited about a revised menu slated for release on Sunday.
Industry observers note that opening a fine‑dining establishment is inherently risky, especially when the price point demands significant investment in food, labor and décor. Bulle’s ambition to become Fresno’s “highest‑end, most upscale restaurant” has placed it among a small cohort of local establishments pursuing Michelin recognition.
Local context
Bulle is not alone in facing labor‑related scrutiny. Horn Barbecue, operated by Bay Area pitmaster Matt Horn, is under a wage‑theft probe by the Fresno City Attorney, and Mirchi Massala, an upscale Indian restaurant, recently faced a wage‑theft lawsuit involving underpayments and stolen tips. These cases illustrate broader challenges that high‑margin restaurants in the Central Valley encounter when balancing quality, staffing costs and cash flow.
Despite the setbacks, some patrons and critics have praised Bulle’s food quality, describing it as a pleasant surprise for the region. Whether the new menu and consulting support will restore confidence among diners and employees remains to be seen.
Original reporting: Fresnoland — read the source article.
