Soulman’s has been around since 1974, which means it predates most of the restaurants in this town by a generation and a half. That longevity tends to make people assume it’s either a Texas institution or a relic coasting on nostalgia. At the Carrollton location on Belt Line Road, it’s actually neither — it’s just a straightforward East Texas-style barbecue joint that does the work and doesn’t make a fuss about it.
First, the brisket. This is the thing you should order, full stop. Soulman’s slices it thin rather than thick, which is a stylistic choice that tends to divide barbecue people the way pineapple on pizza does. If you’re expecting a fat, irregular slab like you’d get at a central Texas-style pit, you’ll be briefly confused. But the thin cuts are well-smoked, have decent bark, and — crucially — they hold their moisture without drowning in sauce. You can ask for a bit of the fatty end if you’d like, and you should.
Second, the sides. This is where Soulman’s actually earns some loyalty beyond the meat. The pinto beans are cooked with enough brisket trimmings that they qualify as a dish on their own. The potato salad is old-school yellow mustard style, not the creamy mayo-forward version that seems to have conquered every deli counter in the Dallas suburbs. The fried okra is consistently better than it has any business being at a barbecue spot. Order it. The only mild disappointment in the side lineup is the coleslaw, which tends toward the sweet end and won’t change your life.
Third, the price-to-quantity math is unusual for 2024. A two-meat plate with two sides runs around $16-18 depending on your choices, and the portions are what you’d expect from a place that’s been feeding working Texans since the Ford administration. You will probably take something home. Lunch crowds on weekday afternoons are manageable; Friday evenings get busy enough that the line moves through the cafeteria-style counter with a bit more urgency.
The dining room is functional rather than charming — booths, checkered tablecloths, the smell of smoke coming through from the kitchen, a few Texas-themed wall decorations that nobody has updated in some years. This is fine. You’re here for the food, and the food is honest. There’s a drive-through, too, which is a genuinely useful feature when you just need a pound of sliced brisket to feed people at home without anyone having to commit to parking.
One thing worth knowing: Soulman’s serves its ribs in a fairly distinct style, glazed and slightly sweet, which leans more toward Memphis than Texas. Locals who grew up with it love this about the ribs. If that’s not your thing, stick with brisket and sausage. The jalapeño sausage link is a solid call either way — snappy casing, good smoke, enough heat to register without becoming a dare.
Belt Line Road isn’t a destination you’ll wander into accidentally. You go because you meant to go. Most people who do end up back there sooner than they planned.
