There are restaurants that feed you, and then there are restaurants that genuinely transport you. Eatery A, tucked into the vibrant East Village neighborhood of Des Moines, falls firmly into the second category — and once you’ve had a meal here, you’ll understand why locals guard this place like a treasured family recipe.
The East Village itself is worth the trip. Sandwiched between the golden dome of the Iowa State Capitol and the Des Moines River, this walkable stretch of brick storefronts and boutique shops has become the city’s most spirited district. And right in the thick of it, at 524 East 6th Street, Eatery A occupies a beautifully converted space that somehow manages to feel both polished and completely unpretentious at the same time.
Chef and owner George Formaro — a genuine Des Moines culinary institution — has built something here that defies easy categorization. The menu reads like a love letter to bold, global flavors filtered through a deeply Midwestern sensibility. Think house-made pastas that could hold their own in any Italian city, shareable small plates that encourage table conversation, and mains anchored by locally sourced proteins prepared with real technique and care. The seasonal menu means things change, which is actually part of the appeal. Every visit has the potential to surprise you.
On a recent evening, my table started with a roasted beet salad that was earthy, bright, and beautifully plated — the kind of dish that makes you reconsider everything you thought you knew about beets. The handmade gnocchi that followed was pillowy and rich without being heavy, paired with a brown butter sauce that I was quietly tempted to request by the spoonful. The desserts, made in-house, sealed the deal completely.
The room itself deserves mention. Warm lighting, exposed brick, and an open kitchen give Eatery A an energy that feels alive without being loud. It’s equally suited to a date night, a celebratory dinner with friends, or a solo meal at the bar where the staff will chat with you like you’re a regular even if it’s your first time through the door. That kind of genuine hospitality is harder to manufacture than any dish on the menu.
Reservations are strongly recommended, especially on weekends when the East Village really hums. But if you find yourself walking by on a quiet Tuesday, pop your head in — the bar is welcoming and the cocktail list is worth its own paragraph.
Des Moines has been earning national attention as a food city for years now, and places like Eatery A are exactly the reason why. This isn’t trend-chasing cuisine. It’s confident, considered cooking from someone who clearly loves feeding people. Make a point to go, and bring an appetite.
