National Moldy Cheese Day on October 9 offers a perfect moment to recognize the hidden artisans behind the world’s most celebrated blue cheeses. While most diners admire the bold flavor and striking veins, few realize that a specialist—known as an affineur—spends months coaxing mold to develop in just the right way.
The science of aging cheese
Affinage, the French term for the art and science of aging cheese, demands constant attention to temperature, humidity and microbial activity. For blue cheeses, affineurs pierce the wheels with long needles, allowing oxygen to reach the interior and encourage Penicillium roqueforti to form the characteristic blue veins. The process is invisible to the consumer, yet it determines whether a cheese will be sharp, creamy, or buttery.
Affineur of the Year competition showcases creativity
Now in its fifth year, the Affineur of the Year competition brings together 47 entries across five cheese categories. Each participant receives an identical young cheese from the same batch, writes a Statement of Intent outlining their plan, and then ages the cheese in their own facility. When the cheeses reconvene months later, the results can be dramatically different.
Examples from this year’s finals illustrate the range of approaches. Chiswick Cheese Market bathed its Baron Bigod wheel in Fuller’s Imperial Stout and smoked it with London Smoke & Cure. Paxton & Whitfield’s Jazz Reeves wrapped a cheese in cling film to create a micro‑climate before rolling it in peppercorns. Mike Thomson of Mike’s Fancy Cheese sealed his entry in clay pots, producing a smooth, sweet interior beneath a rugged crust. The winners demonstrated that daring combinations can succeed when guided by skilled hands.
Winners and their winning concepts
The Courtyard Dairy earned top honors for Quicke’s Cheddar, which they washed regularly in a brine‑and‑bacteria solution and aged inside a wooden Port‑wine box, marrying classic sharpness with Alpine‑style umami depth. Rising Star went to Claire Burt of Burt’s Cheese for a Cropwell Bishop Stilton smoked over apple and maple wood, adding savory complexity to an already intricate blue. The People’s Choice award went to South West Cheese for a hay‑infused, mead‑washed Quicke’s Cheddar—an unlikely trio of flavors that proved harmonious.
Affinage takes root in the United States
While the practice began in European caves, American affineurs are expanding the craft. Murray’s Cheese opened its first aging caves in New York City in 2004, when affinage was still rare in the U.S. Today, Murray’s Queens facility ages cheeses from partner creameries and its own Cave‑Aged line, with affineurs making daily decisions about washing, brushing, flipping and humidity control.
Josh Windsor, Murray’s Senior Caves Manager, attended this year’s finals in London and described affinage as an ongoing conversation with the cheese, not a simple finishing step. The mold does not follow a schedule; it responds to the affineur’s daily judgments.
Understanding blue varieties
For consumers, knowing the differences among blue cheeses can enhance enjoyment. Gorgonzola Dolce ages 50‑150 days, offering a younger, creamier texture that melts easily into warm dishes. Roquefort, made with traditional strains of P. roqueforti from the natural caves of Roquefort‑sur‑Soulzon, delivers sharp, briny complexity and pairs well with honey‑drizzled salads or pears. Stilton, highlighted by Burt’s smoked creation, is crumbly and slightly sharp, best served with honey and toasted walnuts. Ireland’s Cashel Blue, the original Irish farmhouse blue, ages 14‑22 weeks and is now sold in the U.S. as Kerrygold Cashel Blue.
The future of the craft
As more cheesemakers, mongers and educators discover affinage, competitions like Affineur of the Year give this behind‑the‑scenes discipline a public platform. The craft resists automation; no machine can replicate the daily judgment calls required to coax the right mold at the right time. For cheese lovers, the result is a richer, more diverse selection of blue cheeses to explore.
Original reporting: KTBS 3 (Shreveport) — read the source article.
