There is a moment, usually somewhere along the second or third winding path, when it hits you all at once — the color, the fragrance, the sheer improbable beauty of it — and you stop walking entirely. That is the Ewing Park Lilac Arboretum doing exactly what it has been doing to visitors on the south side of Des Moines for decades. And if you have not made the trip yet, consider this your very enthusiastic nudge to go.
Tucked into the rolling terrain of Ewing Park near the Indianola Avenue corridor on Des Moines’s south side, this arboretum is one of the largest lilac collections in the Midwest. We are talking roughly 600 lilac plants representing more than 150 varieties — from the familiar deep purple clusters most people picture when they hear the word “lilac” to creamy whites, dusty pinks, and rare bicolor blooms that look almost painted. The collection was established through the vision of dedicated city horticulturalists and volunteers who believed Des Moines deserved something genuinely extraordinary, and they delivered.
Peak bloom typically runs from late April through mid-May, and during those weeks the arboretum transforms into something that feels almost theatrical. Whole families spread out on the gentle hillsides. Photographers position themselves at dawn to catch the light filtering through the blossoms. First dates wander the curved pathways looking nonchalant while clearly being charmed out of their minds. It is that kind of place.
What makes the experience feel so unhurried and personal is the layout itself. The paths meander rather than march — there is no single correct route, which means every visit can feel a little different. Interpretive signage throughout the arboretum identifies varieties by name and origin, so even if you arrive knowing nothing about lilacs, you will leave with opinions. The Frances Platt Trial Garden portion of the grounds adds even more botanical interest, and the surrounding park offers open green space, a sledding hill, and picnic areas that make it easy to turn a casual visit into a full afternoon.
Admission is free, parking is straightforward, and the atmosphere is genuinely welcoming to everyone — solo wanderers, couples, grandparents with grandchildren in tow, and serious plant enthusiasts with notebooks. Des Moines has a well-earned reputation for punching above its weight when it comes to green spaces, and the Lilac Arboretum is one of the clearest reasons why.
If you find yourself in Des Moines in the spring and you skip this, you will regret it once you see someone else’s photos. Do yourself the favor and go smell the lilacs. The city will still be waiting for you on the other side of the hill.
