While many people think of a Jewish deli as the place for towering pastrami sandwiches, the quieter sibling – the appetizing store – continues to serve a distinct kosher tradition. Rooted in the Jewish dietary law that separates meat and dairy, these shops specialize in smoked and cured fish, cream cheese, pickled vegetables and other dairy‑based fare that can sit alongside meat without violating the rules.
Historical roots and modern resurgence
Jewish immigrants who arrived in New York City a century ago opened delis for meat items and separate appetizing stores for fish and dairy. At their height in the 1930s‑1950s, hundreds of such shops dotted the city. As kosher observance waned and delis began offering both meat and dairy, many appetizing stores closed.
In the last decade a new generation has revived the model, opening shops that honor the original heritage while appealing to today’s palate. Biederman’s Specialty Foods launched in Philadelphia in 2021, modeling classic New York appetizing shops with a focus on high‑quality fish. Los Angeles now hosts Mish Delicatessen, which blends deli meats with traditional appetizing items, and Chicago’s Steingold’s Deli operates three locations offering the same blend.
Family traditions and holiday demand
Observant Jewish families rely on appetizing stores for meals that can be prepared ahead of time and served at room temperature – ideal for breaking the fast on Yom Kippur. “Yom Kippur is the Super Bowl, the World Series, the Stanley Cup finals all in one day,” says Gary Greengrass, third‑generation owner of the iconic Barney Greengrass deli and appetizing shop on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. He rents a refrigerated truck each High Holiday season to handle the surge, noting that business on Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur has risen twelve‑ to fifteen‑fold over the past forty years.
What’s on the plate?
Smoked salmon – often called “Nova” – remains the centerpiece of most spreads. Emily Caslow, co‑owner of Acme Smoked Fish in Brooklyn, explains that Nova is cold‑smoked salmon, milder and less salty than traditional lox, which is cured but not smoked. She adds that a full appetizing counter also offers sable, whitefish, baked or kippered salmon, smoked trout and herring, allowing customers to build a plate that suits their taste.
Bagels are typically paired with plain cream cheese, though many shops now lighten the cheese with sour cream, lemon juice or seltzer for a fluffier texture, according to food writer Cathy Barrow, author of “Bagels, Schmears, and a Nice Piece of Fish.” At Barney Greengrass, the most popular bagel is plain, followed by everything, sesame and poppy.
Continuing the legacy
These appetizing stores not only preserve a culinary heritage but also provide a family‑friendly, faith‑centered dining option that aligns with traditional values. By offering high‑quality fish and dairy products in a setting that respects kosher law, they give newer generations a way to connect with their cultural roots while enjoying a beloved New York‑style breakfast.
Original reporting: Alexandria, VA News – WTOP News — read the source article.
